HOW SWEDE IT IS: NEW CARNEGIE BREWERY A mecca for Stockholm’s new food and beer culture Christopher Bartis | March 27, 2014
MASH TUN; PHOTO CREDIT: CHRISTOPHER BARTIS
NEW CARNEGIE BREWERY In a recent poll, 25% of Stockholmers said that if they could live anywhere, they'd choose New York. And more specifically, Södermalm, recently voted Stockholm's trendiest borough, wants very much to be Brooklyn’s little brother. Today, they got a bit closer, as Brooklyn Brewery and their Swedish partners open the New Carnegie Brewery, the first European brewery to feature an American craft beer perspective and heritage. By choosing such a famous name, they adopted 176 years of Swedish beer history as well (Carnegie Porter was first brewed in 1836 and is Sweden's oldest registered trademark still in use).
BROOKLYN BREWERY'S ERIC OTTOWAY (L) AND GARRETT OLIVER (R); PHOTO CREDIT: CHRISTOPHER BARTIS
“Swedes have always been great explorers,” said Eric Ottaway, general manager at Brooklyn Brewery, in his brief speech about why Sweden was chosen for the site of the brewery. It’s also a fact that Sweden is now the second largest market for Brooklyn Brewery outside of New York (no, not outside the US, but simply outside New York). What’s more, Sweden is the second-biggest export destination for American craft beer overall, according to the U.S. Brewers Association.
Ottaway said that the brewery doesn’t have all the answers, “but we’re curious,” and it’s just that curiosity, spontaneity and optimism that partners Carlsberg Sweden think microbreweries bring to the table.
MARK JENSEN, MANAGING DIRECTOR, CARLSBERG-SVERIGE; PHOTO CREDIT: CHRISTOPHER BARTIS
KELLERBIER (CELLAR BEER) FROM THE FIRST KEG; PHOTO CREDIT: CHRISTOPHER BARTIS
ESKIL ERLANDSSON, MINISTER OF RURAL AFFAIRS, GETS THE FIRST TASTE; PHOTO: C. BARTIS
Sometimes the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. Like enjoying a meal. It is good on its own, but matched with a beer that reflects, reinforces, and contrasts with the flavors on the plate, the experience becomes slightly larger. Well, almost an epiphany.
Those are some thoughts from the New Carnegie Brewery, and Food Loves Beer couldn't agree more! So let's take a look at some of their beers, and the food that loves them:
PHOTO: C. BARTIS
PHOTO: C. BARTIS
KELLERBIER; PHOTO: C. BARTIS
KELLERBIER Kellerbier is an unfiltered German-style lager that gets its name from the cool cellar it is stored in. Bohemian Hanka Pilsner malt gives this golden lager a full, bready flavor, and a blend of Perle, Saaz and Hallertau Mittelfrüh provide a large, floral hop aroma with a refreshing bitterness that elegantly lingers on. Best enjoyed in the company of fresh shellfish, salmon and herring, or Thai take-out when you prefer to let someone else worry about the cooking! Style: Kellerbier ABV: 5.9%
AMBER; PHOTO: C. BARTIS
AMBER Amber is specially designed to pair with food, and it's quite the flexible partner. The brewery prides itself on its carefully chosen, coarsely-ground malt, and it's the malt here that takes center stage, with the mild, grassy and floral aromas of Fuggles hops not far behind. Its caramel notes go hand in hand with both grilled meats and oven-roasted vegetables, and it wouldn't be out of place at a barbecue or with just about anything that's pickled!
Style: Amber Ale ABV: 4.8%
J.A.C.K. PHOTO: C. BARTIS
J.A.C.K. Hops are amazing, and we love an IPA as much as the next person. But sometimes you just want a hoppy beer that’s not so distinctively high in alcohol. That's where New Carnegie's session beer comes in – with a hop character true to an IPA, and a modest alcohol level, you no longer have to choose between hoppiness and strength. The initial, pronounced bitterness is followed by a horde of hop flavors springing from the orangey citrus of British Admiral and the pine-scented American Bravo. To finish it off, J.A.C.K. is the only beer in the range to get the extra special treatment of dry-hopping. It pairs perfectly with shellfish and seafood, and does a nice job of balancing out fatty foods, like fried fish. It’s also great with spicy Indian dishes. This time the beer's name isn’t taken from German or Latin, but rather the names of the brewers: Josefine, Anders, Christopher and Karl.
Style: Pale Ale ABV: 4.5%
J.A.C.K. THE FOUR BREWERS JOSEFINE, ANDERS, CHRISTOPHER AND KARL; PHOTO: C. BARTIS
PRIMUS LUX; PHOTO: C. BARTIS
PRIMUS LUX This dark, full-bodied winter ale is the beer that gets to see first light. The bitterness is impressively balanced and complimented by caramel and roasted sweetness. Hints of chocolate and coffee blend elegantly with the licorice tones of Muscovado sugar and the dark berry fruitiness of Bramling Cross hops. If being out in the cold hasn't given you rosy cheeks, Lux's slightly higher alcohol level probably will! When braised meat, stews, game, dark sauces or hearty soups are on the table, you'll want this ale in your glass. You'll also enjoy sipping it with a rich, chocolate dessert.
Style: Strong Dark Ale ABV: 7.0% (Note: Part of the batch will be stored in oak American bourbon casks, which is sure to add yet another dimension to the already complex flavor. It is a variant that, when completed, will certainly attract attention!)
LUMEN IN TENEBRIS; PHOTO: C. BARTIS
LUMEN IN TENEBRIS Nailing down a few core beers can lay the ground for a brewery's success. But who doesn't love an experiment, especially one that goes well. Lumen In Tenebris builds on the classic Saison base, with its dry fullness, and then twists and turns into something new. A unique mix of Borneo long pepper, Madagascar cubeb and Tasmanian black pepper was created by Lior Lev Sercarz, from the world-famous spice shop La Boite, in New York. Lior's pepper blends are used by top chefs all over the world, and this time it found its way into the boiling wort. A little sweetness from Belgian candi syrup, with notes of raisins and caramel, helps to balance things out. And then, it's all topped off with earthy Saaz hops. While most Saisons are bright, this one is deliberately dark. Lumen In Tenebris. Light in the darkness. This one-of-a-kind Saison complements grilled scallops, fish, charcuteries and Asian cuisine. It also pairs well with berries and stone fruits. Style: Dark Spiced Saison ABV: 6.7%
BILLY WHITE, CHEF (L) AND TOBIAS NORDAHL, RESTAURANT MANAGER (R) IN KITCHEN; PHOTO: C. BARTIS
Innovation does not end with New Carnegie’s beers. The brewery has its own restaurant (Restaurant Nya Carnegiebryggeriet) with a menu that features locally sourced ingredients, classical flavors, and food and beer pairings.
GOAT CHEESE CURD AND WILD GARLIC; PHOTO: C. BARTIS
BLOOD PUDDING; PHOTO: C. BARTIS
VEGETABLE CRUDITE; PHOTO: C. BARTIS
MENU HIGHLIGHTS The above dishes were served at the opening event and may end up on the menu. Here is an additional sampling of the kind of cuisine the restaurant has to offer:
Pork, Smoked Barley and Onions
Raw Scallops, Apple, Kohlrabi and Lardo
Brill, Cockles and Spring Garlic
Raw Vegetables, Cod Roe and Chicken Skin
Malt Custard Tart
Blood Orange Pavlova
The restaurant and brewery opens to the public April 9, 2014. Visit the official Nya Carnegiebryggeriet website for more information.